Stage 15: ASTORGA to RABANAL DEL CAMINO (13 miles)

 Today was a very comfortable walking day. The weather was nice and cool with a lot of cloudiness. It was just a perfect day and a perfect distance. Here are scenes from along the way - 

Along the way we came across this lady sitting along the trail crocheting these very cute "Camino dolls" that you hang from your backpacks. Seth and I couldn't resist:

This was an interesting sight. At the top of the hill before entering Rabanal de Camino was a fence filled with makeshift crosses stretching for about 200 feet.

THE CAVES AT EL CASTILLO, LAS MONEDAS & THE NEO-ALTAMIRA CAVE and SANTILLANA DEL MAR (Distance: this week - 141.89 miles [on bike] - Total - 293.74 miles)

The caves are really interesting and provide an interesting view into prehistoric Spain. Because of the limits on the numbers of people allowed in the caves we had to divide the group in two. We started with Las Monedas. The name comes from the discovery of coins around the opening of a 20 meter deep pit. The coins were from the later part of the 15th century. It is believed that the person carrying the coins fell into the pit leaving the coins as a reminder of his blunder. There are a few cave paintings in the Moneda. It is mostly known for its beautiful stalagmites and stalactites.

El Castillo is where you find the most cave art. The most amazing moment for me was when the guide showed us the hand prints on the walls. Seeing hands put a human touch (no pun intended) to the art; they suddenly became real. Here is a link where you can explore the information regarding the caves: https://cuevas.culturadecantabria.com/el-castillo-2/

After this visit to these caves we went to the Neo-Cave Altamira. Because of the damage that has taken place in the original cave, a replica was created to allow people to see and experience the paintings. Interestingly, those who constructed the new cave used what they believed to similar techniques of application and similar dyes to create the paintings. Here is a link so that you can explore the history: https://www.culturaydeporte.gob.es/mnaltamira/en/que-hacer/exposicion-permanente/neocueva.html. We were allowed to take pictures and here are some of them:

From the caves we traveled to a beautiful resort town of Santillana del Mar. 

and stayed at a very cool little hotel that appears to have been a private residence/palace.

The students decided that they wanted to check out the beach. What a great decision. We were dropped off at Santa Justa Beach and then walked over a hill and down to Tagle Beach. Here is a series of photos that take you from the one to the other. Please note the color of the water. These photos have not been adjusted. The blues and greens were stunning. It is one of the first times that I have seen a true cerulean blue in nature.

Playa de Santa Justa

View of inlet into Santa Justa from the hill

This is a little hermitage built into the side of the mountain above Santa Justa

This ruin was at the crest of the hill

Coming down the hill this is the first view you have of the Playa Tagle

Later we had dinner at a wonderful restaurant (La Huerta del Indiano). We had this very funny waiter who let me take is picture. Every waiter had these funny aprons with funny sayings written on them.

Sunday, we attended our meetings in Santander. The ward was so kind and embracing. We did a special musical number for them for which they were very appreciative. We are now back in Astorga. Tomorrow (Monday, May 30) we set out again (on foot!) for Rabanal del Camino (about 20 kilometers; 12.5 miles). There is rain in the forecast and we have already had some light showers! Wish us luck!

OVIEDO, COVADONGA, SAN MIGUEL DE LILLO and SANTA MARIA DE NARANCO

Oviedo has to be a little piece of paradise on earth. It is green, hilly, with beautiful blue skies. First we visited Santa María de Naranco and San Miguel de Lillo. These are amazing examples of pre-Romanesque buildings. 

Santa María de Naranco was built in 842 as a royal palace to King Ramiro I of Asturias. It was part of a large complex of buildings that included San Miguel de Lillo. It sits high above the valley where Oviedo was built. Later the palace was converted into a church.

View for Santa María de Naranco

A few hundred yards up the hill is San Miguel de Lillo. The interior is amazing (photos weren't allowed). It still has some of the original mural work on the interior.

When we arrived in Ovieda to visit the Cathedral we encountered a food festival in the plaza. The vendors were selling local cheeses (that are amazing) and cured meats (e.g., sausages). 

From Oviedo we traveled to Cangas de Onis where there is this beautiful Roman bridge.

It was then on to Covadonga. Gaylamarie Rosenberg had suggested that we go to these two lakes. I thought, "Why not?" and everyone else seemed to be onboard. Little did I know that we were entering the Picos de Europa, a high mountain range. The trip there was breathtaking but our arrival goest without words. I was overwhelmed by the beauty and serenity. Here are pics:

You can see that we are above the top of the cloud bank!

We returned to Covadonga (sadly!). 

Covadonga plays a significant role in the history of Spain. According to legend the king, Pelayo, confronted the Moors here and defeated them (718-722) beginning what what would be known as the Reconquest of the Peninsula. As the story goes, Pelayo hears a voice calling him from a cave. When he enters he confront an image of the Virgin Mary that sets him on his heroic course and promises him victory in the name of Christianity. Below is the sacred Grotto:

There isn't much in Covadonga except the grotto, hotels and a new-Romanesque church that offers a striking pose on the top of a hill.

More to come!